Dildo

By how it moves

The first decision is whether you want to power the toy yourself. It shapes the price, the noise level, the care routine, and how much control you keep.

Manual dildos

No motor, nothing to charge, and no noise beyond what you make. You set the pace, depth, and angle by hand, which is why most first dildos are manual. The range inside this group is broad: realistic veined shafts, smooth shapes, and flexible silicone that bends to your angle instead of springing back. It is also the cheapest way in. The trade-off is effort, and hands-free use only works if the base is built for mounting.

Vibrating dildos

A rechargeable motor adds vibration along the shaft, usually with several speeds and patterns and sometimes a wireless remote so a partner can take over the controls. The feel is a buzzing layer on top of the shape rather than movement. If you like the realistic form and want more sensation with less physical work, this is the middle step between a manual dildo and a fully motorised one.

Thrusting dildos

Here the motor moves the shaft itself, in and out, at a stroke length and speed you choose. Some add peristaltic ripples along the shaft, rotating or swaying motion, or a tongue-like flick. This is the closest thing to hands-free penetration, and it is the loudest and most expensive group: noise figures in this range run from about 60 dB to 85 dB, so check them if discretion matters. The thrusting dildo range covers the differences in more detail.

Heated and multi-function models

Warming is the newest addition, with heating elements specified around 42°C, close to body temperature. It rarely arrives alone. Most heated dildos also thrust, vibrate, or sway, so treat warmth as one feature among several rather than the reason to buy. It is most useful on silicone, which otherwise needs a few minutes of contact to pick up your body heat.

By size and shape

Sizing is where most buyers get stuck, because listings mix two different measurements and two different ways of describing length.

Insertable length versus total length

Total length covers the whole toy, including the base and any sculpted testicles. Insertable length is the part that actually goes in. A dildo measuring 21 cm overall offers roughly 15 cm of insertable shaft, so the same toy is sold as a 6 inch model by one measure and an 8 inch model by the other. Read both numbers before comparing two listings, and treat insertable length plus diameter as the pair that decides comfort.

Diameter and girth

Girth matters more than length for most people. Diameters in this range run from about 3.4 cm on a slim starter dildo to 6.5 cm on a large one, and that gap feels wider in use than the numbers suggest. If you are sizing up, take a few millimetres at a time rather than a whole centimetre, and expect to use more lubricant as the shaft gets thicker.

Straight, flexible, or angled

A straight shaft is the most predictable and the easiest to position. A flexible or bendable one lets you set an angle and keep it, which matters with longer toys. Length is one route to the G-spot: the longest model here measures 36 cm insertable and presses forward with its tip rather than needing to be angled hard. Texture adds on top of shape, with raised veins, ridges, and nubs creating friction while a smooth shaft glides with less resistance.

The size grades in the range

Shops group dildos by the number in the name: 6, 7, 8, 9, and 14 inch. Those labels are not applied consistently, because some listings measure insertable length and others measure the whole toy, so a 6 inch and a 7 inch model can be closer than the names imply. Use the grades to build a shortlist, then confirm the real figures on the spec sheet before you choose.

By base and how it is held

The base decides whether you hold the dildo, mount it on a surface, or wear it. It is also the safety feature that makes anal use possible.

Suction-cup base

The most common base in this range. Press the cup onto glazed tile, glass, or a smooth desktop and push the trapped air out, and the dildo stays put with both hands free. Cups here measure around 9.5 cm across, and at least one model pivots through 225 degrees so you can set the shaft angle. It needs a flat, non-porous surface: grout lines, textured walls, and fabric defeat it. The suction dildo range covers mounting and hold in detail.

Flared and stable flat base

A wide flat base lets the dildo stand upright for storage, gives you something solid to grip by hand, and slots into a harness where a suction cup would get in the way. For anal use this is a requirement rather than a preference: a base wider than the widest part of the shaft is what stops the toy being drawn inward, and a toy that has travelled too far is a medical problem rather than an inconvenience.

Harnesses and wearable designs

Harness and wearable systems put the shaft on the wearer. A harness-based setup pairs a flared-base dildo with an adjustable PU leather or nylon belt and an O-ring, so you can swap shafts on one harness. Strapless models drop the straps: a keel sits inside the wearer and a band holds the shaft steady. Both are sized by waist and hip measurement, so check your measurements against the fit range first. The strap-on dildo range shows how the parts are sold as a set.

Before use

Lubricant is the first decision, and it is the one that affects the toy itself. Use water-based lubricant with silicone and TPE dildos: silicone-based lubricant can bond to a silicone surface over time, and on porous TPE it is harder to rinse out. Apply it to the shaft and to yourself, and keep the bottle within reach, because the amount that feels right at the start rarely lasts a whole session. If you want a warmer feel, hold a silicone dildo under warm water for a minute or two. Check the material before you buy, because porous TPE needs a stricter routine than non-porous silicone. Charge a motorised dildo fully before the first use so it does not cut out mid-session, and check the water rating before it goes near a shower: a fully waterproof or IPX6 model can be rinsed, while a splash-resistant one should be wiped. For a suction base, clean the surface first, since dust and soap film are what make a cup fail.

During use

Go slower than you think you need to, especially with a new toy or a step up in girth. Start with the tip, let your body adjust, and add lubricant before it starts to drag rather than after. With a manual dildo you control everything, so use short strokes first and change the angle before you change the pace: a small rotation usually finds a comfortable line faster than pushing harder. With a motorised model, start on the lowest setting. Thrusting and vibration together can numb rather than build, so work up in steps. For hands-free play, press the suction cup down hard to push out trapped air, then test the hold with a light tug before you put weight on it. On a harness, adjust the straps so the base sits flat against the body with no gap, and tighten before you start rather than mid-session. Sharp pain is a stop signal, and during anal use keep a hand on the base until you are sure the flare is holding.

Cleaning and storage

Clean the dildo after every use, before anything has a chance to dry on the surface. Non-porous silicone is the easy case: warm water and a mild, fragrance-free soap or a dedicated toy cleaner, then a thorough rinse so no soap film is left behind. Wash it between partners and between vaginal and anal use. Keep alcohol, bleach, and household detergent away from any dildo, and keep motorised models out of the sink: wipe the body, wash the shaft, and leave the charging port and contacts completely dry before they go back on the charger. Porous materials such as TPE need more than a rinse. Wash them gently, then air-dry them fully, including every ridge and fold, because trapped moisture is what causes odour and mould. Store dildos separately in a breathable pouch or the original box, out of direct sunlight. A suction base should go back clean and dust-free so the cup still seals flat, and a harness should be wiped with a damp cloth rather than soaked, then stored unclipped so the straps keep their shape.